Are Gel Nails Safe? What Experts Say About the Chemical Europe Just Banned

For millions of women, gel manicures at the salon are a form of self care. Every few weeks, turning your brain off for an hour or so while your nails get a little TLC is something of a ritual—but what if that ritual is putting your health at risk? On September 1, a ban went into effect in Europe on trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), a chemical found in gel nail polishes, as animal studies indicated it could have a negative effect on reproductive health. While European nail technicians are no longer allowed to use products containing TPO, the chemical remains legal in the United States. Here, everything to know about TPO, whether it’s still safe for use, and gel polish alternatives. 

What is trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO)?

Trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO) is an ingredient found in gel polish known as a photoinitiator.When the UV light that cures gel polish comes in contact with the photoinitiator, the polish solidifies, creating the hard, glossy finish of gel manicures. “A photoinitiator absorbs energy from the UV or LED lamps used in gel manicures, which sets off a chain reaction that links small molecules called monomers together to form long polymer chains, forming a solid film,” explained cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos in conversation with TODAY.

The European ban on this product came as a result of animal studies. When researchers gave male rats large amounts of TPO, it negatively impacted the rodents’ reproductive health—results that convinced officials to proceed with the ban, telling European nail techs to dispose of any remaining products they have containing TPO—Is the United States next?

Is it safe to still use nail polish with TPO?

Gel manicures and pedicures are so popular in The United States in part because the polish lasts for two weeks (or more) and is resistant to chips. But if Europe’s latest move has you wondering if we’re next, board-certified dermatologist Michelle Henry, MD, founder of Skin & Aesthetic Surgery of Manhattan, doesn’t think we’re quite there. “The US takes a risk-based approach to regulation, which means the burden of proof of actual harm is higher than in the EU,” she explained. “It would likely take more studies in humans before a ban is considered. That said, many large international brands are already reformulating for consistency across markets, so consumers here may start to see more TPO-free options regardless of whether the US issues a ban.”

With all of that in mind, Dr. Henry says that gel polish containing TPO is still safe to use. “Our system looks at real-world risk and exposure, and since gel is applied to the nail plate—not the skin—the amount absorbed is likely very minimal. That said, it’s important to make sure the polish is applied carefully to avoid contact with the skin, she warns.

Are gel nails safe?

Long before Europe’s ban became news, there have been concerns over the safety of gel manicures. For starters, these manicures require a UV lamp to cure and harden the polish, and UV exposure is linked to skin cancer. Furthermore, many have taken to social media to share experiences of negative skin reactions to gel polish, burning sensations and weak and brittle nail beds after consistent gel manicures. While TPO might not necessarily be the biggest threat, the conversation surrounding the safety of gel nail polish has been ongoing. 

What are some alternatives to gel polish?

If you’re committed to gel polish and are wary given these recent studies, TPO-free gel polishes do exist. And manicure alternatives such as dip powders don’t contain TPO. Press-on nails are another good option, as is regular nail polish, which is TP)-free. While it can be frustrating touching up drugstore polish after only a day or two when it chips, brands like Dazzle Dry have stepped up the game when it comes to DIY manicures. 

I tried Dazzle Dry so you don’t have to

Unwinding in a nail salon might be therapeutic for some, but for me, it was the opposite. Tired of sitting in that seat an feeling antsy every two weeks, not to mention dishing out $60 every time my nails grew out, I made the switch to at-home manicures. While this gave my bank account a nice break, the appearance of my nails suffered: No matter what I did, my manicures would chip within three days. I had seen ads for Dazzle Dry, a standard nail polish that doesn’t use a UV light and promises a chip-free manicure for 7+ days, but I was deterred by the high price tag of $12.00 a bottle. But fed up with my choices of a pricey salon manicure or a subpar DIY mani, I decided to splurge on the $42 Mini Starter Kit. 

So far, I’ve been impressed! It’s easy to do and the results are promising. After applying two layers of base coat, two layers of nail lacquer and one layer of top coat, the manicure dries completely in 5 minutes (that’s bee key for me, as someone who’s far too impatient to allow my nails to dry completely). While the speedy drying time was a big selling point for me, it’s the fact that my manicure stayed for 8 days without a single chip that’s made me a fan. And that’s not all! 

Though it isn’t as thick as a gel polish, it has the same shine, which is a major plus. If you’re looking for an alternative to gel polishes, specifically those containing TPO, you might want to give this product a try.