The Retinol Sandwich Method is a Gentler Approach to Retinol That Minimizes Irritation and Redness
A dermatologist breaks down the trendy technique and how it works
If you are in any way into skincare (or probably even if you aren’t), you definitely have heard of retinol. Perhaps you use it yourself as part of your nightly skincare routine. Dermatologists, estheticians and other skin experts have long touted the ingredient as an anti-aging superhero. And while it can do wonders for reducing fine lines, firming skin and enhancing the overall health of your skin, its strength can sometimes be irritating to some. Enter: the retinol sandwich method. This gentle skincare technique makes retinol more tolerable to those with sensitive skin. Here, we asked a top dermatologist her thoughts on the retinol sandwich technique, its benefits and disadvantages and more.
What is retinol?
Before we get into the retinol sandwich method, let’s first go over exactly what retinol is. Retinol is a vitamin A derivative used in topical skincare products. There are multiple different “umbrellas” under retinol: for example, there is retinal, retinoic acid and tretinoin. The latter, tretinoin, is commonly done as the sandwich method, called the tretinoin sandwich method.
“Tretinoin, a vitamin A derivative, is a powerful topical medication commonly used for its anti-aging and acne-fighting properties. The active ingredient in tretinoin is all-trans retinoic acid, which is the biologically active form of vitamin A,” explains Pooja Rambhia, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. “It works by accelerating cell turnover, promoting the shedding of old, damaged skin cells, and encouraging the growth of new, healthy cells.”
The difference between tretinoin and retinol is mainly the strength. “Unlike tretinoin, which is the active form of vitamin A and works directly on the skin, retinol is a precursor that must be converted by the skin into retinoic acid to become effective,” says Dr. Rambhia. “This conversion process makes retinol less potent than tretinoin, allowing individuals to gradually acclimate their skin to retinoids while minimizing side effects. As a result, retinol can be a gentler starting point for those looking to improve their skin health before potentially progressing to stronger formulations like tretinoin.”
Both retinol and tretinoin help to stimulate collagen production and increase cell turnover, reduce fine lines, fade dark spots, treat acne and more.
What is the retinol sandwich method?
Now that you know what retinol and tretinoin is, we can get into the retinol sandwich method. “The sandwich method is a technique for reducing irritation when using [stronger] retinoids like tretinoin. This approach buffers the retinoid between layers of moisturizer to minimize direct skin contact while still allowing the active ingredient to work,” explains Dr. Rambhia.
Think of it as creating a protective barrier between your skin and the retinol, similar to how you wear sunscreen to protect your skin from a burn.
Benefits of the retinol sandwich method
The retinol sandwich technique is great for those who are trying out retinol for the first time. It can take some time for your skin to adjust to a strong ingredient like retinol, especially if it’s tretinoin, which is where the retinol sandwich can be beneficial.
“This method particularly benefits beginners, those with sensitive skin or when you’re increasing retinoid concentration. It helps reduce common side effects like redness, dryness and peeling,” explains Dr. Rambhia.
How to do the retinol sandwich method
To try the retinol sandwich for yourself, follow these steps by Dr. Rambhia below:
- Wash your face with cleanser and pat dry thoroughly.
- “Apply your first moisturizer layer as the ‘bottom slice of bread’ and allow 5-10 minutes for absorption,” advises Dr. Rambhia.
- Next comes your vitamin A. She says to, “Apply a pea-sized amount of retinoid to your face, avoiding sensitive areas around eyes, nostrils and lips, then wait another 5-10 minutes.”
- To finish off your retinol sandwich, apply a second layer of moisturizer as the “top slice of bread.”
Downsides of the retinol sandwich
While the retinol sandwich technique can be great for those with sensitive skin or beginners, you may not really need it if your skin already tolerates retinol well. Plus, that first layer of moisturizer could potentially restrict the retinol from performing to its highest ability.
“An important trade-off here is that the first moisturizer layer acts as a barrier that can prevent full retinoid penetration, thereby reducing its effectiveness,” affirms Dr. Rambhia. “As your skin builds tolerance, you may gradually transition to the more effective method of applying retinoids directly to clean skin, following with moisturizer only afterward.”
Gentle retinols to try that don’t require the sandwich method
If your retinol is irritating your skin, you can of course, try the retinol sandwich technique. But another option is to try out a different, gentler retinol. One that Dr. Rambhia likes is CeraVe Skin Renewing Retinol Serum, which is available at the drugstore. “This features encapsulated retinol for gradual release, combined with three essential ceramides and niacinamide to maintain skin barrier integrity while reducing potential irritation. Its fragrance-free, non-comedogenic formula is particularly suitable for beginners,” she says.
Another drugstore option she recommends is La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum, which “blends pure retinol with niacinamide to calm and strengthen the skin barrier while addressing signs of aging. Its gradual-release technology and inclusion of glycerin help maintain hydration and minimize potential retinoid reactions.”
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